Today I headed back to Wellington Arch and went right to the top viewing platform for a good view over Hyde Park, Green Park and beyond.
The history of the arch is most interesting. Originally it was designed to rival the Arc de Triomphe in France (didn’t come close by the way due to revenue issues) as a bit of an ‘in your face’ gesture for losing the Battle of Waterloo. Originally a giant statue of the Duke of Wellington was erected on top of the arch, and this was a source of criticism for many people at the time, as reflected in Punch magazine, with the statue shown as being so large it was almost bigger than the arch. Over time Wellington’s statue was moved elsewhere and replaced by the Angel of Peace - probably was time to stop rubbing in the victory. There were some lovely views of the surrounding area, but the wind was fierce from that high up.
This excursion was coupled with a visit to Apsley House, the residence of Arthur Wellesley (aka the Duke of Wellington), and still the residence of his descendants today, hence only some rooms are accessible. You weren’t allowed photos in most areas, but I did get a few. The most impressive room was the Museum, which houses all the gifts showered upon the Duke after his victory over Napoleon at Waterloo. The entire room is filled with gold dinner sets and table settings. There’s the Prussian service – 64 desert plates depicting Wellington’s life and campaigns, as well as vases, fruit platters, wine coolers and more. Or the even more impressive Saxon service, hundreds of plates made in 1818. There are batons on display, and swords, including one left behind by Napoleon when he was forced to flee from his carriage. The giant Waterloo shield is probably the highlight, and the Standard Candelabras (nothing standard about them I must say) – designed for the sideboard at parties.
Then there’s the grand staircase featuring a giant naked statue of Napoleon. During World War I a maid was staying in the house alone when it sustained damage from a bomb blast. When a neighbour came to check on her the biggest concern was that the blast, much to her horror, had blown the carefully placed leaf from the nether regions of the statue – this needed to be amended immediately!
There are several massive drawing rooms full of paintings, and I mean full, from floor to ceiling, and it is amazing to think the Duke held parties here celebrating his victories. The ornate ceilings and chandeliers are so intricate and dripping with gold, and much of the original furniture is still on site, including a marble table presented by Tsar Nicholas of Russia.
A trek through Green Park soon led me to discover more squirrels (yey!) and then it was past Buckingham Palace for a visit to the Royal Mews, where the Queen’s horses, Royal cars and carriages are kept. It is called the Mews because it used to house falcons, and the name has never been changed.
A few horses were around, including one with a penchant for smiling at the camera – no joke, every time I raised the camera he smiled - but most of the thirty or so on site were out of view. The Queen personally names all horses, and their name and year of birth are displayed on a plaque above their stall. The Queen’s State Carriage was on display, as was an Australian coach and the coach that all the recent lady monarchs have travelled in for their wedding day (including Princess Diana). There were some more informal coaches also (like the goat cart!), but the highlight was the Gold Coach – a four tonne beauty that only moves at snail’s pace, even when pulled by eight horses, and dates back to the 1700’s when it cost a small fortune to make. Apparently it was quite a bumpy ride though, so the wheels were padded for extra comfort. Only the most well-behaved horses, decked out in their finest, are permitted to pull this beauty! To get the coach out of the display area for use is quite a task, with hidden doors having to be removed to permit its exit.
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