13 February, 2011 – Off with her head

Well, being my last day in London today before heading out to Bath I was determined to visit the Tower of London, although it was quite busy being a weekend, and I didn’t actually realise how cold it was until I had arrived. Being a weekend, there was maintenance on the Tube, so it was a bit of a hike over London Bridge (it’s the boring bridge) and along the River Thames to the Tower. It was very pretty, despite being overcast, but with a wind that cut through you like a knife.  

Once inside I was just in time for a tour with one of the Yeoman (Bob). He was such a great guide. All the Yeoman and their families actually live in the tower and are locked in after 9pm each night. To become one, you need to be in the military for at least 30 years of scrupulous and highly honoured service – so quite easy really J Their uniforms cost thousands of dollars (and yes they are uniforms, not costumes!) and the really fancy gear worn on the Queen’s Birthday and other important occasions is worth 13,000 pounds per outfit. Bob was a great guide, really funny and informative – “Any Aussies in the crowd? Welcome home!” We got to see Traitor’s Gate and the Cathedral that holds the bodies of Lady Jane Grey and Anne Bolelyn. 

Then there are the ravens, there must be at least six ravens on site at any one time otherwise legend has it the Tower will crumble and the monarchy will collapse. Naturally theirs wings are clipped so they can’t leave, but they are looked after so well that they probably wouldn’t want to anyway – with the oldest raven on site living to be over 40 years of age.

There is a whole section of quaint houses for the Yeoman and an onsite doctor and priest and then of course there is the tower that holds the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately you cannot take photos in this section, but trust me, it’s amazing. To see the crowns and batons and orbs that have been held by so many over the years, and the massive 563 caret star of India sapphire is truly stunning. The way the light reflects off it in an array of colours is like nothing I’ve even seen. You stand on a conveyor belt and cruise by all these stunning pieces, including Queen Victoria’s lovely diamond crown, then round the corner to see the heavy robes worn at coronation and the massively elaborate gold place settings, including a wine goblet that can hold over 100 bottles of wine.

Then it’s on to the White Tower, the original and oldest tower, built in 1080. Here are the stairs where the bodies of the two young princes were found buried after being murdered a number of years before by an unknown offender. Their bodies are now in Innocents Corner in Westminster Abbey, but a plaque is dedicated to them here.

Inside there is another Cathedral where Henry VIII and other monarchs have been thought to sit and pray. One of the original tower toilets is even still here. It was nothing but a hole, with wood over it, and the hole simply ran to the edge of the tower, so everyone’s business would go down the hole and down the tower wall to the ground below. There was armour on display belonging to Henry VIII and his young son, as well as the largest suit of armour ever made. It was fascinating to see original plans of the tower, and an executioner’s block and axe. The Yeoman told us of one inexperienced and slightly inebriated executioner who required eight blows to remove the head of one unlucky man. Anne Bolelyn was so scared of an unclean execution that a specialist was brought in from Scotland, and she was one of the few to be executed by sword.

In one tower you can see a number of inscriptions on the walls carved by occupants awaiting their fate – this is just fascinating, with everything from simply names, to pictures to entire passages of thought. To think these were carved so many years ago.  The last execution took place in the Tower in 1941. The man’s name was Jakobs and he was a German sergeant on a spying mission – he was executed via firing squad.

Despite being at the Tower for most of the day, there were still a few areas I didn’t get a chance to see, so I hope to go back another time – perhaps when one of my dear friends reading this comes to see me I could escort you J

12 February, 2011 – To market, to market

Today I met up with a girl I met through TNT magazine and we went to Borough Markets. It was mostly fresh food here, and you have never seen so much cheese! Plus lots of exotic meats like reindeer, partridge etc. Then we went for a walk all along Southbank to Covent Garden, where there is another good market selling woodwork, paintings, interesting clocks and a variety of goods, I must go back another time. More importantly, there is also an Aussie shop nearby selling normal chocolate – yey! Mind you it’s not cheap, but it’s good to taste the familiar. Not all chocolate is bad here, other brands seem okay, it is just Cadbury’s.

There are also a lot of buskers here, my favourite being a man with his face painted and his legs hidden pretending to be a dog in a kennel. So clever, and funny. There were lots of quaint shops and pubs along the way, and although long, it was a nice walk and a good way to get your bearings. Top it all off with a hot chocolate and a white choc piece of cheesecake and it’s a good day J

11 February, 2011 – Celebrities and wax – believe it or not my dear Watson

Well today was a full on day. It started with a trip to the Sherlock Holmes Museum, naturally on Baker Street. This was set in such a cute, dingy old house- the floorboards really creak and groan as you walk about too. Each of the rooms were laid out for Sherlock and Watson, in a way just as they were described in the books. Seeing as Sherlock isn’t actually real (sorry if I spoilt that for anyone) there isn’t actually much to see as such, because it is all fiction, but it is great to see the rooms and stories brought to life just like you would imagine, with old books, fireplaces, old fashioned lighting, doctor’s utensils, pipes and other accessories. Sections of the Holmes stories are played out with dummies, although I must say the craftsmanship left a lot to be desired.

The staff are dressed in period costume and even Dr Watson was on call for those wanting a picture. There were lots of letters on display from Holmes fans requesting autographs, my favourite being from a little boy, who had to write a letter for extra credit at school, even though he told his teacher it was stupid because everyone knows Holmes isn’t real!

Next it was on to some more lifelike models at Madame Tussauds. Unlike the old days, it’s fully interactive now, so you can touch and get photos with the ‘celebs’. There are a number of themed rooms, from the red carpet party, to the sports centre, the World Leaders section, Royalty, musicians and the Chamber of Horrors.  The Chamber of Horrors isn’t that scary, except it’s really dark and as you’re trying to find you way people leap out at you and growl and spit and pretend to lick you and stuff like they are crazed. Although they don’t actually touch you they get really close and come out of nowhere, so it’s pretty freaky. There’s plenty of blood and gore with displays showing the guillotine and other methods of torture.

But, back to the nice stuff. Had to do what everyone does when they’re here and get photos with the celebs like Johnny Depp, Helen Mirren, Will Smith, Morgan Freeman, Steven Spielberg, Robin Williams, Audrey Hepburn, Robin Williams, Oscar Wilde, Henry VIII, the Queen and many more.

Some of them are so well done it is scary, like Morgan Freeman, Nelson Mandela, Whoppie Goldberg and Yassah Arafat. Others actually leave a lot to be desired. John Travolta, David Beckham, Mel Gibson, James Dean and Elvis all looked nothing like the real people in my opinion. All of the models are supposedly meticulously done, and I guess it’s hard to create ones of those people who have already passed away – but John Travolta! Come on, he obviously never modelled for them, they must have just guessed.

Another thing – it’s really hard to take photos of yourself with the models, although it does look more authentic I guess. Later on my friend Saba joined me, so that made it easier, but even then the models have this distant look in their eyes and are looking in different directions, so it makes it difficult to look like you are actually with them. But that’s all part of the fun I guess. The rooms they are in are also cool, done like movie sets, with fancy lighting and props. A lot of my personal favourite celebs were missing though, no Meryl Streep, no Tom Hanks, no Clint Eastwood. Oh well, will just have to meet them for real some day J

In the red carpet section they had a Japanese wax model pretending to take photos of the celebs, and she was so lifelike, I actually went to ask her to take my picture! And while I was waiting in the hall for Saba (who got a bit lost) I was sitting on the floor with my legs crossed, and people coming out of the lift thought I was wax! I moved at one point and this lady actually screamed!

It’s quite amazing how Madame Tussauds came about – she used to work for a man who worked with wax and made death masks of those executed in Britain. Her museum was a huge attraction for many years before becoming what it is today.

There was also an awesome ride through a mini London with a black cab as your vehicle. On the way you were shown the history of London, the kings and queens of old, medieval times (complete with rats gnawing fruit on the ground), war time, carnivals and more, all created with moving models and sounds. It was so cool we went on it twice! There was a merry go round with a freaky model on it that would snap its eyes around to look at you every time it went past – seriously it was like an adult chucky doll.

Then it was on to the Marvel Comics section, where I decided to hang with Spiderman. The best bit here was the 4D movie. 4D is always awesome, no matter what the genre, and this was no exception. As the comic characters go on their adventure, not only is it 3D, but you feel the water splash on you, the whoosh past your ears as Spiderman releases his cobweb, or the Hulk smashes his hands together. The freakiest part was when Wolverine stuck out his claws and you felt the jabs come through your seat. It was really cool, edge of your seat stuff, and the girls behind us literally screamed every time this happened.

Then after a nice dinner at Balfours (a lovely Italian place with profiteroles to die for) I headed off to Ripley’s Believe It or Not Auditorium, which is open till midnight (and I was there that late too). It was interesting in parts although a lot of the things weren’t real (i.e. there might have been a cow born with a leg coming out of its back, but this was just a model) and it was highly overpriced for what was there, but hey, it had some interesting stuff. Loved the mini-cooper covered in Swarovski crystals, the paintings crafted from gumballs, chewing gum, lint, pennies, plasticine, stamps and even butterflies, the Titanic and Tower of London models crafted from toothpicks, the pants of one of the world’s heaviest twins, the shrunken heads , and the comic containing the dead creators ashes! There was also a torture section here, which wasn’t much, but the horrifying bit was the electric chair re-creation – you pulled the lever and the model writhed and squirmed and smoked to an extent that was so real it was horrifying.

Then we came to the mirror maze. The most confusing part of the evening. By now it was after 11pm and I was pretty tired, and do you think I could find my way out of this daunting maze? I kept arriving back at the entrance, and it got to the point where I was starting to almost panic, I would imagine people have some real freak-outs in there. There is little lighting and you just go around and around in circles, seeing duplicates of yourself at every turn, no idea whether you can step through the space in front of you or if it is another optical illusion or dead end. As it was close to closing time and I hadn’t yet cracked it, I’m embarrassed to say I was led out by one of the staff – although it made me feel better when she made a few wrong turns too, and she knows the way! Then it was back home for a good rest!

10 February, 2011

Really terrible weather – finally the rain has come. Figured I was too lucky that it has stayed away so long, will have to but off my trip to the Tower of London.

9 February – Visit to the country me Lord?

Today Murray escorted me to Hertford, the country region where he worked for some time upon first arriving in the UK. The express train trip took less than half an hour, so it wasn’t far, yet it’s a world away from the city. Also Dad, just for you, we did pass Emirates Stadium (Arsenal’s homeground) but I wasn’t quick enough for a picture – I will make sure I get it another time.

Hertford’s everything you would imagine really – rolling green hills, quaint English pubs, friendly locals, gently flowing rivers, and plenty of ducks. I especially loved seeing the houseboats moored along the riverbanks, some dishevelled, others highly cared for. We were talking to one lady who was painting the inside of her boats door, and similar intricate detailing was evident on the outside – this was their home and a lot of work had gone into it. Rather like campervanning really, it’s a lifestyle. There were lovely little old houses and cobbled streets and even the remains of a castle. I even met some lovely ladies from the local council who were very funny and offered me a local walking map with the suggestion that Murray was only really familiar with the locations of the pubs J We were extra lucky, because the sun came out and it turned out to be a rather nice day. Basically I will let the pictures speak for themselves with this one. Even in winter the colours and surroundings were quite breathtaking.

February 8 – Rachel spends far too much money

Well today I made the mistake of going shopping! I was originally looking for some thermal underwear I had seen advertised, and while I did succeed in finding this, I also succeeded in finding lots of other things! After hopping off the train at Piccadilly Circus I took a stroll up Regent Street until I found the exciting attraction I had seen on my map – Hamley’s Toy Shop, which is celebrating 250 years in London.  This place is insane! Seven levels of toys! There was a section for boys, one for girls (with a giant barbie doll collection and some stunning dollhouses), one for pre-schoolers, one for hobbies, one for games (board and interactive) and a whole level dedicated to soft toys (I had to have a very high resistance in this shop – and yes there were penguins – there was every animal ever created!) There was a giant section for teddy bears (and there were some lovely ones), a giant section for other critters, an area where you stuff your own bear, and a collection of the very expensive Steiff bears. I think the dearest one of these I saw was around $1,000. I saw a great penguin keyring, but it was tiny and still about 20 pounds. They layout of the place was also amazing, with sections made to look like the red London bus and other displays that went on as far as the eye could see. Collectors would have a field day, with highly crafted tin soldiers, and limited edition Harry Potter, Batman memorabilia and more.  There was even a lolly section, and it’s safe to say their mint/choc fudge is exquisite.

On each level there were not only a number of friendly staff, but performers and interactive toys, either just set-up for playing with, or with staff offering demonstrations. I’ve never seen that in a store before, where they are happy to let people try things. You have never seen anything like it –there were toys I have never seen before in my life! Massive and gorgeous puzzles, giant seas of lego, even a pamper area where kids can get their nails and stuff done!

The kids party room was also pretty impressive – wouldn’t walk out with those kids without paying for it! Well being the big kid that I am I had to purchase something – so I walked away with three souvenir teddies (a bobby, a beefeater and a highland teddy) and a lovely set of tea towels and bag celebrating the stores landmark anniversary. Oh yeah, and I got a money box where a cat leaps out and steals your coins. Hey, I have all these extra pennies and nowhere for them to go. It doesn’t matter if you’re not into toys – this is a place you have to see.  Regent Street is crazy – with fancy heritage buildings housing massive department stores, including Apple and Nike.

Then I headed along the more affordable Oxford Street and purchased a few souvenirs and a cloche-style hat (my head has been freezing and I’m afraid that I look appalling in hats, so this was the least offensive style I could find).  Then with my wallet a little lighter, and my parcels a lot heavier, I trekked home.

7 February, 2011 – The Abbey!

Today I headed off to Westminster Abbey – to look at the inside this time. Over 3,000 people are buried in these hallowed walls, mostly Kings and Queens of old, but also famous writers, scholars, poets and more.  There are tombs everywhere, some with massive monuments, others are right beneath your feet, with just engravings to mark their site.

This has been my favourite thing to see so far. I cannot describe to you how amazing the inside of the Abbey is. The ceilings are so high they seem to go on forever and the gothic structures and history are unsurpassable. When you first walk in it is completely overwhelming, with stained glass windows, a golden alter and a special section for the choir, with an organ that stretches on forever. It is here at this main alter where Prince William and Kate Middleton will be married. The original marble floors are so delicate they will need to be protected with carpet to prevent damage. The lovely volunteers demonstrated where the carriage would pull up (the western entrance) and where the Queen would sit – front row viewing of course. They expect around 2,000 people to attend, although a lot of these will be behind the choir area, so won’t have the best view. The choir is made up of just over thirty boys ranging from age 6 – 13. Anyone can apply to join the choir and it is highly competitive, because if selected they get all their education, board, food etc free – nothing at all to pay. They attend a special choir school and after turning 13 they go back to normal school once again.  I also learnt that when the current Queen had her coronation, a series of tiers were built in the Abbey to accommodate the 8,000 people set to attend. This is why it was 18 months after taking the throne before Elizabeth had her coronation, as it took this long to build the structures. And you should have seen how high they went – right up to the bottom of the top stained glass window – trust me, it was high!!!! Once seated, guests had to remain so for around five hours until the ceremony was over – bet the bathrooms were inundated!!! This main alter is also where Princess Diana and the Queen Mother’s bodies were placed for their funerals.

There are a series of chapels as you make your way around the Abbey, each containing massive monuments and inscriptions for the dead – duchesses, dukes, knights – many of them buried in the 1400’s, 1500’s and 1600’s. Edward the Confessor ( the Abbey’s founder) has a massive tomb here. He was regarded as such a saint that sick people were brought to spend the night by his tomb in the hope of curing them.

The highlight though was Henry VII’s Lady Chapel. Now I know you shouldn’t utter the words ‘holy crap’ within such sacred walls, but there was no other way to describe it. The intricate detail on the ceilings is incredible. Henry VIII’s little boy is buried here under the alter, and even Oliver Cromwell was buried here – for two years. After that he was dug up, hung, decapitated and shipped off elsewhere – so much for rest in peace. I guess he did contribute to the downfall of the monarchy though – seems they got their revenge.

In a room off to the side lie the tombs of Queen Elizabeth I and her half-sister Mary.  The likeness on top of the tomb looks just like Elizabeth, with the face believed to have been cast from her death mask – hence the realism.  Across the hall is the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots. It is supposed to be more grand than Elizabeth’s as specified by Mary’s son once he came to power. That’s right Queenie – you had my Mum killed, so I’m giving her a bigger tomb than you. However I couldn’t view it as it was closed for restoration.

Then it’s onto poet’s corner where the likes of Charles Dickens, Chaucer, Handel and Lawrence Olivier are buried. There are lots of other memorials to Jane Austen, Lewis Carroll, the Bronte sisters, Shakespeare and dozens of others, although their bodies are located elsewhere. Anne of Cleves (one of Henry VIII’s wives is also located near here).

The Nave is another glorious section that houses the tomb of the unknown warrior, a monument representing all of those unidentified victims of war, as well as Sir Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin (although his monument is a lot smaller, so sad to say the Church probably still feels some animosity there).

Finally there are the Cloisters, where the Monks once lived and worked, in fact some families still live on site here, and it is cold!!!!! There is a door here believed to be the oldest door in England, built in 1050. Wow! That’s old! There is a lovely garden outside (where I was finally able to take some pictures, as they aren’t permitted elsewhere in the Abbey).

Well anyway, I think I have talked about the Abbey quite enough, but there really is something magical about this place, and the guides are really friendly. It almost makes me wish I was religious – reckon I might be if I could worship in a place like that all the time. There are many services held at the Abbey, so I might just attend one at some point. To hear the choir alone would be phenomenal.

Oh, one more cool thing, the Coronation Chair, built in the late 1200’s. It has been used for every coronation since and replicas of all the sceptres, swords and crowns used in the ceremony were on display in the Abbey Museum. This thing is so old that it needs constant restoration, it even has graffiti on it from the choir boys over the years.  The stone used as part of the seat is sacred to Scotland, so has been returned there until it is needed for the next coronation, which will be good old Charlie(or preferably William).

That night I went with a girl I had met (Saba) to Chinatown to celebrate the Chinese New Year of the rabbit. Unfortunately, there were some departure delays, and we arrived just in time to hear them announce it was all over.  This was a real shame, as I had been looking forward to the event all week. Nevertheless we still looked around and had a lovely dinner – and I must say, they were very efficient at cleaning up afterwards, within a few hours the streets had been cleared of rubbish and washed. Very efficient.